Is there such a board that is 9' long, epoxy, that paddles and tracks very well, catches waves very easily but still can provide a light feel and easy turning characteristics of a performance board? I am 52 years old, 160 lbs and surf east coast waves and want something to take me to the next level. I started surfing at 44 so I am not quick like a 14 year old. I want durability, fun, easy to catch waves and performance characteristics if this is possible. I currently ride a 9-6 Robert August-"What I Ride" model (epoxy). Our normal waves are 1-3 feet. We however have good waves in the fall (hurricane season),5-10 feet. Is there something that meets all of these conditions well? I must be able to ride a tube and get out of the way on large fast waves but I don't want to give up to much wave count either.
90% of our waves are 1-3 feet.
Al
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Hi Al,
The answer is yes to all of your questions!! I make a longboard that has the quick paddling and early entry into waves combined with the performance characteristics of a very responsive design. My Performance Longboard model would be the magic board for you. This is a very versatile design that generates a lot of speed in small waves, yet holds in and is very responsive in the punchier and hollow waves as well. Judging from the board you are coming off, your age, the direction you want to go with your surfing, and the typical waves you most commonly surf....the perfect dimensions for you would be 9'0" x 22 x 2 7/8" Performance model with a squashtail. Epoxy construction is the way to go as well since the boards are typically slightly more buoyant and much stronger than standard board construction.
Don't let the Performance label scare you, you don't have to be a pro to enjoy this board....it is the perfect next board for you.
Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have.
I know you would be stoked on a magic Proctor custom epoxy Performance Longboard.
Looking forward to your reply,
Aloha,
Todd
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Thank you Todd for taking the time to talk with me. I understand what you have specified below but I am worried about losing ease of paddling and wave count. What would we be giving up if we went with more volume? Thicker maybe? I don't know. I don't want to take a good design and screw it up. You are the expert. I still want sensitivity and maneuverability. Don't forget, my east coast waves are chop and slop and mostly 2-4 feet. I must be able to surf vertical and get out of the way on hurrican tubes though. What do you think? Also can you put a Hawaiian type print design on the deck? Can you make rails and nose durable? About what budget are we discussing? We will discuss by phone at some point. I look foreward to your reply.
Thanks
Al
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Hi Al,
How thick is the board you currently have?
TP
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Todd, I share and own boards with my brother. We ride:
1. Takiyama " MODEL T" Length-9-6,Nose-19,Width-22.88
Tail-16,Thickness-3.1,Vol-82 Liters
2. Robert August "WIR"
Length-9-6,Nose-18,Width-22.88,Tail-15,Thickness-3.0,Vol-81 Liters
3. Hobie "Classic"
Length-9-6,Nose-18.25,Width-23.38,Tail-15.25,Thickness-3.2,Vol-78 Liters
4. Walden "Magic" Length-9-2,Nose-19,Width-22.5,Tail-15,Thickness 3.5,Vol-?
All are epoxy except the Walden Magic which was cumtom made.
I know there is no pefect board. I must have fun and be able to ride 1-3 foot waves as well as ride 5-10 foot waves. I have also been told that I don't need another board but I think something in the 9-0 range can help me develope skills. I need your opinion.
What is a modern longboard? What does that mean when people talk about specilizing in modern longboard design?
Look forward each day to your comments.
Al
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Alan,
I am familiar with each of the different boards you currently have in your quiver. Looks to me like you've got three boards that are more classical kinds of shapes (models 1-3) and one that is a very specific performance design(model #4). Based off the dimensions of these other boards, some better dimensions for you to add more performance and responsivenss to your surfing without losing paddleability would be: Performance model 9'0" x 22 1/2" x 3"....nose: 18"....tail: 14". This design utilizes modern hull contours and a sleeker outline to give you a board that will provide you with much more speed and responsiveness through turns in the wide variety of waves running from small and mushy to overhead and powerful.....the most versatile performance oriented longboard design I make.
I am not sure what other companies may mean by "specializing in modern longboard design"....to me that is a very broad, relative statement. To be more specific about my Performance Longboard model, I use a rocker, or bottom curve that has a flatter run through the middle. This gives the board incredible speed in the small stuff. There is a moderate entry rocker to make steeper take-offs smooth on the bigger days....the entry is not too steep however, so as to make it an unreal noserider when you want some tip time. The tail rocker is crisp and loose allowing the board to speed through turns on a dime. I use a single concave in the nose which splits to double concaves through the mid section, and then to a spiral vee/ concave vee through the tail. This combination of bottom contours creates incredible lift and drive due to the fact that air is able to get under the board as well as the water having a more direct route for water to be compressed down along the bottom of the board and out the tail. This concept is the key for giving the performance longboard that little extra pep, versatility in wave varieties, maneuverability and even added paddleability.
That is the best way I know how to breakdown what I feel would be the perfect board for you.
I know you would be stoked on a custom Proxy Performance Longboard dialed in to the perfect design and dimensions to maximize your surfing and you're your longboarding to the next level.
Looking forward to your reply,
Have a great day,
Aloha,
Todd
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Todd,
Thank you so much for your time. You have been the most helpful person that I have talked to. I am the one that is not sure what to do. I want to have FUN AND IMPROVE MY SKILLS at the same time. We don't often have 3-4' walls with long clean lines. We have chop and slop most of the time. In winter the waves can get larger. A board like you describe may be perfect for me but I am at a loss. If we reduced the board to 8-8 or 8-10 and made it 3 3/4 "
thick, how would that effect the performance? Is that a design that is a good option as well? I will be 53 in Aug. and don't have the quickness skills I use to. How can we talk about colors and deck design? I want Hawaiian print on the deck.
Todd please answer at your convenience. I want to talk by phone at some point.
One last question: Looking back, what one thing did you do, board wise or training wise, in your career that really helped your surfing skills advance to another stage? I am at novice/intermediate and I want to advance to intermediate/expert.
Thanks
Alan
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Hi Alan,
9'0" is the perfect length for you at this point with your surfing. After reading carefully the boards you are coming off of, I described (in the previous e-mail) something very different than any of the boards you have. As a surfboard designer, I am confident a custom designed performance mdel Longboard is exactly what you are wanting from your surfing experience. If you drop the length down too much by going to 8'10" or smaller, you are going to sacrifice paddling....and by adding thickness to compensate for it by going to 3 3/4" the board will become very corky and you will lose performance....so that is not what I would recommend. If you are very worried about paddling, we could bump it up to 3 1/4" inches thick, but that is as thick as I feel comfortable going; otherwise you will be defeating your purpose of getting more performance from your board and from getting your surfing to that next tier. Just to give you an example of what is typical dimensions for someone your height, weight and age....low intermediate - 9'0" x 22 1/2" x 2 3/4"....so we are adding plenty of extra foam to this board to make sure that you get into the waves with ease even in small, horrible wind chop waves.
Most of what you are needing out of your board to help you get to that next level comes down to the rocker, or bottom curve of the board. In my last e-mail I broke down a very specific type of three stage rocker and how it works for the variety of wave types in your area, but most specifically for the small wind chop/ slop that is the majority of what you will be surfing. Make sure to re-read the description of the custom hull contours from the last e-mail as well since those contours work in conjunction with the rocker to accomplish exactly what you are wanting....a board that will catch waves easily, provide more responsiveness in small, mostly wind chop waves, yet will also remain versatile for when there are good waves.
Colors and graphics are wide open. Whatever you can imagine, we can do. That is another part of the beauty of what we do here...Everything in-house with a crew of craftsmen including several artists.
Hawaiian print cloth inlays are no problem....we do them all the time.
When you are ready, the best thing to do would be to set up a phone appointment with the office at (805) 658-7659. Just let them know you would like to talk to Todd and that it is regarding a custom Longboard order, and that we have corresponded via e-mail.
I know you would be stoked on a magic custom performance Longboard to take you to the place of your dreams.
Aloha,
Todd
P.S. I just noticed your last question to me....
I started surfing when I was twelve years old and the best thing I ever did to advance my surfing was to get the right type of board by discussing with a knowledgeable shaper who instructed me on what would be best for me. He determined the proper design by my height, weight, age, surfing experience, the type of waves I surfed and the direction I wanted to go with my surfing. He incorporated all those things into what he knew as a designer would be the best board for me........I took his advice, got the board he recommended, and surfed every opportunity I got.
