Very sad to learn of this recent development... The original scenario was bad enough, but learning of this latest twist places a new perspective on it for me.
Just goes to show that even people who have the world in the palm of their hands have challenges just as difficult to face as those who have the world on their shoulders... But it's who we are in the face of those challenges which defines our legacies and our mark left behind, not the challenges themselves.
Wednesday, December 5, 2007, 01:41 PM PST [General]
In case you haven't been paying attention, the northern hemisphere seems to be giving the big wave surfing community a sign that this year's Billabong XXL Wave Awards are going to be overflowing with stiff competition. Gigantic swells have been pounded the coasts of several continents. Ireland, Spain, California, Hawaii... all have monsterous swells pounding their shorelines.
It's always a sad day when some one is lost surfing. Just yesterday Peter Davi lost his life at Ghost Tree's, a massive wave which breaks at Pescadero Point in central California. It is believed he drown trying to get to shore after his leash broke. Peter left behind a son. But is it truly sad that some one passes doing the thing they love most in life? Obvioulsy big wave surfing drove this guy because 99% of surfers know you have a pretty good chance this will happen to you if you surf these types of waves.
But is it tradgic for a warrior to die in battle? Is it tradgic for a a mother to die defending her child? This was a man who could see beyond the fear of death and could chase his dream regardless of the knowledge it could be his end. These people made a choice in life no matter what the consequnces and lived their life by those choices. So often people make a choice but never see it through to its ultimate conclusion. To those who have made the choice and those who have paid the ultimate price for that choice I say, Ahola. You all leave behind a legacy with your every step and your journey has just begun.
Wednesday, October 24, 2007, 11:42 AM PST [General]
In case you've been under a rock or on Mars for the last week, the west coast is on fire, both figuratively and literally. As southern California goes up in flames (I guess that's why its the city of fallen angels) northern California breaks have a fire of their own going on. A nice combo long period swell has graced us with head high, glassy peaks. To boot? Offshore winds. It's usually like this during September and October up here... but this year just hasn't delivered much along those lines.
It's just nice to know it can still happen... Go get some waves!
